A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale tasks, but the choice is down to personal preference.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate result every time.

Fixing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a constant and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to finish.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Repairing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Conserve this for later on.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Starting to Saw:.

Piercing.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

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