Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.
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My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to end up.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Starting to Saw:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various accessories including drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to move a more complicated design onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.