A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to individual preference.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise result every time.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Piercing.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Fixing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Save this for later on.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Fixing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

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