A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. The table below contains all the info you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Save this for later.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Repairing:.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again when sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Piercing.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Starting to Saw:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an accurate outcome each time.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Tools for Piercing: There are many different methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Troubleshooting:.

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