A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to individual choice.

Sawing

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Conserve this for later.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Piercing.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Troubleshooting:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Fixing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Beginning to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to move a more intricate style onto metal. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

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