A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale projects, however the option is down to personal preference.

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Piercing.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Conserve this for later.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Fixing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories including drill bits.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to finish.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee a precise outcome every time.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Troubleshooting:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Beginning to Saw:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

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