Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.
There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.
When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for little scale jobs, however the choice is down to individual preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Beginning to Saw:.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee a precise result whenever.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Conserve this for later.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.