A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing whenever.

Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

Beginning to Saw:.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Conserve this for later on.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee a precise result each time.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Fixing:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

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