A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Installing a blade into a saw:

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure again until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Fixing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Repairing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use effectively.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Conserve this for later.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Beginning to Saw:.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

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