Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Conserve this for later on.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Starting to Saw:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee a precise outcome each time.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you purchase.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to complete.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.