Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale tasks, however the option is down to personal preference.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Conserve this for later on.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.
Starting to Saw:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to show the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping just undo and duplicate the process again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.