Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale jobs, however the choice is down to individual choice.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Save this for later.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to end up.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Starting to Saw:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.