Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for small scale tasks, but the option is down to individual choice.
There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
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Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you buy.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate outcome every time.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Starting to Saw:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). If you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a constant and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the procedure again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to end up.