A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to individual preference.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing each time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the info you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Starting to Saw:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Fixing:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are many different methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.

Conserve this for later on.

Fixing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

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