There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing each time.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the information you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Save this for later.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different accessories including drill bits.
Starting to Saw:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure once again till its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure an accurate outcome each time.