Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Installing a blade into a saw:
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Save this for later on.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise outcome every time.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you purchase.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to end up.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Beginning to Saw:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.