Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact result every time.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of various attachments including drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Conserve this for later.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to end up.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.