Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing whenever.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Installing a blade into a saw:
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
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Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a mild and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Starting to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more complex style onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee a precise result whenever.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use successfully.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.