There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging areas.
Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to individual choice.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Installing a blade into a saw:
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate result every time.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Conserve this for later.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a consistent and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping just undo and duplicate the procedure again up until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you wish to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Starting to Saw:.