There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult locations.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table below contains all the information you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Installing a blade into a saw:
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Starting to Saw:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to complete.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the procedure again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to transfer a more complicated design onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Conserve this for later on.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an exact outcome every time.