Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult areas.
Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an accurate result each time.
Starting to Saw:.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a steady and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to complete.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you buy.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Conserve this for later.