Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for small scale tasks, however the option is down to individual choice.
There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult locations.
When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is total.
Submit to finish.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Save this for later.
Beginning to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). If you wish to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an accurate result each time.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a mild and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.