A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard locations.

Sawing

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Conserve this for later.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an exact result every time.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.

Fixing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you purchase.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Piercing.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is total.
File to end up.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Beginning to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to move a more complicated design onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

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