Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct path to effective sawing whenever.
Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table below consists of all the information you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Starting to Saw:.
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
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Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact outcome whenever.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and consistent action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to end up.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.