A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table below contains all the details you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact result each time.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes best. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

Piercing.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Troubleshooting:.

Repairing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Save this for later.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to transfer a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to complete.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

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