A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). If you want to move a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Starting to Saw:.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to end up.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome whenever.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Troubleshooting:.

Troubleshooting:.

Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Conserve this for later.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

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