Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.
Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into hard areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Installing a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
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The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
Submit to finish.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an exact result every time.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various attachments including drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use effectively.