Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.
Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Beginning to Saw:.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process once again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Conserve this for later.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.