A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing each time.

Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult locations.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. The table below consists of all the info you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Troubleshooting:.

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Piercing.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to complete.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Starting to Saw:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an accurate outcome each time.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

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