A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. The table below includes all the info you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Starting to Saw:.

Fixing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Conserve this for later on.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Repairing:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a mild and consistent action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Piercing.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to end up.

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