A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to individual choice.

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.

Beginning to Saw:.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a steady and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Repairing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you purchase.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to move a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Conserve this for later on.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Repairing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

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