Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the information you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee a precise result every time.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Save this for later.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a steady and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to finish.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.