There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for small scale tasks, but the choice is down to individual preference.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Installing a blade into a saw:
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Likewise do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use successfully.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is total.
Submit to end up.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Conserve this for later on.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Starting to Saw:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and consistent action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.