A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Installing a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Conserve this for later.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Piercing.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Repairing:.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure once again until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you want to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise result whenever.

Beginning to Saw:.

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