A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). If you desire to move a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and constant action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Piercing.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Starting to Saw:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

Conserve this for later on.

Repairing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise result each time.

Troubleshooting:.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

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