There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct path to effective sawing every time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise result each time.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Beginning to Saw:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Save this for later.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to end up.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.