A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale tasks, however the option is down to personal choice.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Beginning to Saw:.

Piercing.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to complete.

Fixing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to transfer a more complex style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

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Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure a precise result whenever.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Fixing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

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