Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing each time.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Installing a blade into a saw:
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Save this for later.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to end up.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a constant and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise outcome whenever.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
Starting to Saw:.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).