A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging locations.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. The table below includes all the details you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you buy.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to finish.

Save this for later.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different attachments including drill bits.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Troubleshooting:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Troubleshooting:.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Beginning to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to transfer a more complicated style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

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