A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult areas.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing.

Starting to Saw:.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a constant however gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is total.
File to end up.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Troubleshooting:.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Repairing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process once again up until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of various attachments including drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure a precise outcome each time.

Conserve this for later on.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

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