A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal choice.

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have assembled this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing whenever.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

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Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Repairing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Piercing.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different accessories including drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Fixing:.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure an accurate result whenever.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

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