Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale tasks, but the option is down to personal preference.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to finish.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure a precise result whenever.
Conserve this for later on.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.