Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale tasks, but the choice is down to individual choice.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.
Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you buy.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to end up.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various attachments including drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to move a more intricate design onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Beginning to Saw:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure once again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Conserve this for later on.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate result whenever.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.