Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the info you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Starting to Saw:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure a precise result whenever.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
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Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to finish.