Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to individual choice.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different attachments including drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to complete.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact result each time.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process again until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Save this for later.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Beginning to Saw:.