A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to personal choice.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Installing a blade into a saw:

Repairing:.

Fixing:.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Beginning to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to complete.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Save this for later.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

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