A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale projects, but the choice is down to individual choice.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table below contains all the information you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Troubleshooting:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use effectively.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a stable and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an exact result each time.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to complete.

Beginning to Saw:.

Fixing:.

Piercing.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure once again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Conserve this for later on.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

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