A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.

Troubleshooting:.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact result each time.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to finish.

Troubleshooting:.

Starting to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Conserve this for later on.

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