Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to personal choice.
Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. The table below consists of all the info you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact result each time.
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you buy.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Save this for later on.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Starting to Saw:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different attachments including drill bits.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to end up.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). If you want to transfer a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.