Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing whenever.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Installing a blade into a saw:
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Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an exact result every time.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you buy.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.